Oil-Lamp Fishing: Under the Night on Tonle Sap

Reaching the oil-lamp fishing grounds of Tonle Sap was not easy. It took months of waiting, listening, and earning enough trust to move quietly within this world. In Siem Reap, access depended not only on patience, but on the work of Cambodian fixers who understood the lake, the people, and the risks. For a photojournalist, people like them are often the only reason hidden places such as this can be reached at all.

After dark, the fishermen begin to move. Each boat carries dozens - sometimes hundreds - of kerosene lamps into the darkness. The flames draw insects toward the water; the insects fall; and fish gather beneath the glow. Before dawn, or when experience tells them enough fish have concentrated below the lamps, the fishermen move in with specially adapted nets and lift the catch from the black water.

Tonle Sap has long supported one of the world’s richest inland fisheries. Its fishing practices are shaped by flood cycles, fish migration, local knowledge, and the daily pressure of survival. For many families, the lake is not an idea of nature. It is food, debt, work, risk, and the next morning’s income.

But this is not only a story about night fishing. It is also part of a wider pressure on a lake already under strain. As the lamps drift for hours, kerosene leaks slowly into the water, repeated by dozens of boats across the night. Alongside concerns over declining fish stocks, overfishing, and the capture of juvenile fish, the glow of each lamp carries both necessity and damage.

The work of a photographer is not to judge from a distance, but to witness what is there: the skill of the fishermen, the desperation behind the work, and the environmental cost flickering beneath each small flame. Most importantly, it asks a quieter question: how to be there - close enough to understand, but careful enough not to take more than the story allows.

I began making these photographs during a GIZ assignment on the Mekong region and continued the work beyond the commission.